Extra care should be taken when camping in the winter. Depending on how cold the temperatures will be and on the likelihood of snow being a factor here are some tips to help you get ready for cold weather camping.

WINTER WEATHER LAYERING  

Wearing lots of clothes in the cold and removing them layer by layer as you get warm up with activity is an age-old idea. With modern garments, this system gives you a versatile, thermally-efficient, and convenient way of dressing for all outdoor activities. By applying the layering approach you'll find that the clothing you put together for your camping trip will serve you in other seasons as well.

Clothing is classified in three layering categories (the three "W's"), as follows:

1) The Wicking Layer keeps a comfortable climate next to your skin by wicking away sweat,
2) the Warmth Layer absorbs moisture and provides insulation,
3) the Wind Layer protects against wind, snow and sun.

Here is a checklist describing the functions of each layer of clothing you'll need.

WICKING LAYER

	One synthetic long underwear top
	One synthetic long underwear bottom
	An extra set of each (not essential but recommended)

FUNCTION: While the long underwear layer provides some insulation, its primary function in winter activities is to draw perspired moisture away from the skin to prevent chilling. Wet skin loses heat 26 times faster than dry skin. If you are active and perspiring, the new synthetic fibers like polypropylene, Thermastat, Duofold, Capilene keep your skin far drier than absorbent natural materials like cotton, wool or silk. Rather than absorbing moisture, synthetic fibers work by repelling water. They actually wick the water towards the exterior where it can dissipate in other clothing layers and evaporate.

WARMTH LAYER

	One thin insulating top (i.e., fleece shirt, sweater)
	One thick insulating top (i.e., fleece anorak warm hooded jacket)
	One pair insulating pants
	One insulated vest (not essential but recommended, particularly for camping trips)

FUNCTION: Warmth results from trapping body-warmed air and keeping it from swirling around to prevent heat from escaping. This layer should have ample fabric loft and the cut should be roomy to hold more body-warmed air. For active use, the reliability of an insulation when damp is especially important. In this regard, synthetics are superior to their natural counterparts because they retain more loft and insulation while absorbing less water. Duck and goose down is virtually useless when damp. And because half or more of your body heat can be lost through your head, it's best if your thick insulating top includes a hood. An insulated vest offers an extra edge of torso warmth and is easy to stow -- an oversized one is ideal because you can slip it over your jacket for rest stops and lunch breaks.

Thin insulating top options include synthetic fleece sweater or shirt, turtleneck with zippered collar, wool shirt, light V-neck wool or wool blend sweater, polyester pile pullover. Thick top options include long, (preferably hooded) parka or pullover made of thick polyester pile or nylon fleece, or having synthetic insulation like Quallofil, Hollofil or Polarguard. For your legs, choose thick polyester pile or heavy wool pants, or pants insulated with synthetic batting. (Avoid cotton tops and cotton pants like jeans, corduroys and khakis as they hold moisture and feel clammy in the cold.)

WIND LAYER

	One windshell jacket
	One pair windshell pants

FUNCTION: A shell may be your most important garment in the layering system. Outer shells are designed to protect you from wind, snow and even sun. Furthermore, windshells can add up to 25 degrees of warmth in calm weather and twice that in windy weather. Choose a long, hooded lightweight jacket or pullover made of 60/40 cloth, Supplex, Sierra cloth, or other breathable nylon or polyester blends. Three basic types of cloth are used in constructing shells;

1) cloth that is windproof but not waterproof, thus allowing maximum evaporation of perspired moisture (uncoated nylon or nylon/cotton blends). This choice is the best for winter use.

2) cloth that is windproof and waterproof but allows no evaporation (rubberized rain coats, urethane coated nylon). Unbreathable rain jackets are unacceptable for winter use. Unsure about you have? Put your mouth against the fabric to see if you can force any air through it.

3) cloth that is both windproof and waterproof but allows some evaporation through microscopic pores (Gore-Tex, Entrant and similar fabrics). They work well if rate of perspiration is low and if outside temperature is above freezing. Below freezing the pores tend to clog with frost. They are acceptable, though not ideal, for winter use.

HAND WEAR

	One or more pairs insulating mittens
	One or two pairs shell mittens
	One or two pairs liner gloves (not essential but recommended, especially for camping)

FUNCTION: Again the layering system applies. A tight-fitting, thin liner glove wicks away moisture and allows you full dexterity when you need to work with mittens off. Thick mittens serve as the insulating layer. Over that you need a water resistant shell. Long cuffs help seal out the wind. Choose one or two pairs Thermax or polypropylene liner gloves plus warm mitts made of wool, wool/nylon blend, Polar Plus or other polyester pile. Overmitts made of leather (called "choppers") are the most durable for camping trips though nylon shells (made of Supplex or Cordura) are lighter. Mittens that combine insulation and shell in one, such as snowmobile mitts, also work but are more difficult to dry.

BOOTS (this applies for extremely cold weather)

	Snow boots with removable liners
	One extra pair of liners (for camping trips)
	Insulated camp booties (for evening use on camping trips)

FUNCTION: Don't skimp here. Cold feet on the trail will cause a dip in your fun meter faster than anything else. 'Pac boots' with rubber soles and leather or Cordura nylon uppers are best. Avoid boots with rubberized uppers (they don't breath) and steel shanks (the metal tends to conduct heat away unless the soles are specially insulated). Removable liners are essential (the ones with built-in liners can't be dried). Foam liners dry faster than felt ones. Removable foam insoles add an extra edge of warmth. Make sure the fit of the boot and liners is not tight - you should be able to wiggle your toes with ease. We recommend wearing one pair liner socks and two pairs insulating socks when you're getting fitted for boots. Tight boots mean cold feet. Choose LaCrosse, Sorel, Timberland, Boundary or other quality snow boots with rubber soles and lowers, leather or breathable nylon uppers, removable felt or foam liners and rated to at least -40.

Inevitably, your boots and liners will become dampened by perspiration during the day on a Wintergreen trip and must be dried each evening. That's why --for camping trips-- we also recommend bringing lightweight camp booties insulated with Polarguard, Quallofil, or down (available through most camping stores). They're not essential but they sure make your feet sing after a day on the trail.

SOCKS

	2 or more pairs light liner socks
	2 or more pairs thick insulating socks

FUNCTION: The layering system applies here as well. Synthetic liner socks wick perspired moisture away from your feet while heavy socks provide insulation. Choose Thermax, polypropylene or Olefin liner socks along with polyester, wool or wool/nylon hunting socks

HEADWEAR

	One lightweight ski hat
	One warm hat or balaclava (an open face mask)
	Neck gaiter (not essential but wonderfully versatile for keeping neck & face warm)

FUNCTION: Over half of your body heat can be lost through your head. Choose a lightweight wool, wool blend, polypropylene or Thermax ski hat; thick insulating hat, cap or mask. Optional headwear items that you may choose to bring include a scarf, ear muffs, neck gaiter and ear warmers.